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Nitty Gritty on the Oil Cleansing Method

crunched by on February 7, 2011
filed under Natural Beauty Recipes, Skin

There are facial cleansers – foamy, gel, soapy, dry. There are exfoliants and scrubs. Toners and splashes.

And then there’s oil.

The superhero of facial cleaning.

You heard me right. Oil.

Regardless of your particular skin situation (dry, oily, normal, reptilian), there’s an oil-cleansing method that will work with your type.

“Oil cleansing method,” is one of the most popular in-site search term on Crunchy Betty. You want to know more about this oddly effective way to wash your face. I don’t blame you. It’s disco awesome.

My one post on it, however, was written at nearly the absolute beginning of my blogging career. I had no idea how to craft a readable, coherent post. (Translation: It’s confusing and not very helpful.)

We’re going to try this again. The right way.

Everything you want to know about the oil cleansing method. Why it works. How to do it. The pros and cons.

Your mind = blown. Your face = gorgeous. Your undying love + candy = mine.

How Does the Oil Cleansing Method Work?

Turn off the faucet for a minute. Put your facial cleanser away. Instead, today, grab some oils and slather them on your face. Massage them around. Let them lounge luxuriously. Now, turn the faucet back on – very warm water. Dunk a washcloth in it and then slowly wipe the oil off your face.

Guess what? Your face is now as clean as it needs to be. It’s radiant. Gorgeous, dahling. You’ve just used the oil cleansing method.

But how does it work?

You know how your skin – all of it – secretes oil? Even if your face feels dry, it still has oil on it.

Well, according to chemistry know-how, like dissolves like. So, effectively what you’re doing  is dissolving and wiping away all the icky dirty oil from your face and replenishing it with clean, nourishing oil.

There’s no harsh chemicals involved. No suds. Nothing to actually strip your skin of its oil.

And this is good, because when you strip your skin of its sebum, it goes into overdrive, trying to create more. Which leads to clogged pores. Blackheads. Whiteheads. Just plain old irritation.

(We learned this well with the no ‘poo experiment, right? How shampoos make your scalp flip out and produce more oil?)

And that, in a very brief and succinct nutshell, is how the oil cleansing method works.

What Oils Are Best for Oil Cleansing?

Regardless of your skin type, there’s one oil you’ll probably want, and that is:

Castor oil.

Castor oil is gives you the most cleansing, dissolving bang for your buck. It’s also highly antibacterial in nature.

It can also be drying. So depending on your skin type, you’ll either use more or less castor oil proportionally to the other oils.

Good Oil Cleansing Varieties

  • Jojoba (all skin types, but very desirable for acne-prone skin)
  • Sweet almond (all skin types, especially oily)
  • Grapeseed (all skin types, especially oily)
  • Avocado (dry and aging skin)
  • Sunflower Seed (all skin types)
  • Olive (all skin types)
  • Apricot Kernel (dry, aging, and normal skin)
  • Argan (all skin types, especially aging skin … very pricey)
  • Tamanu (all skin types … very pricey)

*You’ll probably want to stay away from coconut oil for oil cleansing, as it is a known comedogenic and may possibly clog your pores and exacerbate blackheads.

The Oil-Cleansing Ratio

Some oils to use for the oil-cleansing methods.

When you first start out with OCM, It’s best to think in ratios of thirds. You can measure these thirds out ahead of time and prepare a whole bottle full of oil. Or, you can do what I do and just eyeball it each time you use the method.

It might be better to use this on a “wash-by-wash” basis before you go mixing a whole bottle of oil together, just in case you want to change up the ratios if you notice your face is becoming too dry or too oily.

Here’s the rule of oil-cleansing thirds (remember, castor oil is important here):

.

.

  • Oily skin: Use 2/3 castor oil to 1/3 carrier oil. (Or measure out 2 tsp castor oil and 1 tsp carrier oil.)
  • Normal skin: Use equal parts castor oil and carrier oil. (Measuring out 1-1/2 tsp castor oil and 1-1/2 tsp carrier oil.)
  • Dry skin: Use 1/3 castor oil and 2/3 carrier oil. (Again, 2 tsp carrier oil and 1 tsp castor oil.)

These ratios are NOT set in stone, but they’re a great jumping off point. Again, when I do this, I just eyeball it in the palm of my hand and go from there.

My favorite mix thus far: 1 tsp castor oil, 1 tsp avocado oil, and 1 tsp jojoba oil.

Oil Cleansing in 3 Easy Steps

  1. Prepare. Either mix your oils together ahead of time, or have the bottles ready. Set a clean washcloth beside the sink. Turn the hot water on to warm up.
  2. Cleanse. Starting with a dirty face (no need to pre-clean here, even if you’re wearing makeup), rinse your face lightly with the warm, running water. Pour the oil in the palm of your hand and then apply gently all over your face. Massage firmly, but gently, always moving upwards. Massage for 2 minutes, and then let the oil sit on your face for 30 more seconds or more.
  3. Rinse. By now, you should have very hot water coming out of your faucet. Adjust the heat until it’s cool enough to apply to your skin, but warm enough to soften the oil (it’s probably going to be hotter than the water you usually rinse your face with). Dunk the washcloth under the hot/warm water until it’s completely soaked. Apply the washcloth to your face and hold it there for 10-15 seconds. Slowly begin to wipe off. Rinse your washcloth and repeat until you’ve wiped all the oil off your skin.

That’s it!

Your skin is now cleansed.

For as easy as it sounds – and as beneficial as it is – there are some pros and cons to oil cleansing, though.

Pros and Cons of Oil Cleansing

Pros:

  • It’s fantastic for your skin, and works for many people to clear up acne, combat dryness, and maintain a radiant glow.
  • It’s super natural (be sure to buy cold-pressed or expeller-pressed organic oils, as well as castor oil that’s consciously extracted).
  • It whisks away makeup in a flash.  (It’s the only way I clean my face when I wear makeup now.)
  • It doesn’t strip the skin of its natural oils.
  • If you use this nightly, you may not need to spring for pricey moisturizers anymore.

Cons:

  • It may take a week or two for your skin to adjust to this new regimen.
  • It’s more time-consuming than just washing your face with a cleanser.
  • It’s a little more costly than using a cleanser, depending on the oils you choose.
  • It may mean more laundry, due to the numerous washcloths you’ll go through if you do this every night.

Notes on the Oil Cleansing Method

Now that you know why you should do it, how to do it, and whether or not you’re up to the challenge, you may have a couple of questions. If I don’t cover them here, feel free to ask down below.

The frequency at which you use the OCM is up to you. Some people do it every night. I don’t have that kind of hardcore dedication (nor do I feel like my face gets dirty enough most of the time to warrant it). The one thing I would probably steer clear of – completely – is switching up the OCM with a store-bought facial cleanser that contains sulfates or sulfides. You’ll just confuse the heck out of your skin and it won’t know what to do with its own oil.

You might not need to moisturize after you use the oil cleansing method. This is where I heartily encourage you to get to know your own skin, so you can tell if it’s feeling dry enough to use a moisturizer. Every time I’ve OCM’ed before bedtime, I’ve never felt the need to moisturize (save a little vitamin E oil around my eyes).

You CAN jazz it up with things like tea tree oil or lavender essential oil (if your face is oily or acne-prone) or carrot seed oil or rose hip oil for normal/dry skin or even some rose essential oil or myrrh essential oil if your skin is aging. In all cases, just use 2-3 drops of each oil in your mixture.

Don’t sweat it if you don’t enjoy the oil cleansing method. It does take some time, and it does take some time to get used to. Eventually, you may feel like you’re pampering your face in a whole new and incredible way. Or you may feel like you never want to go to bed, because. Only do it if you enjoy it – if you see and feel a difference you’re happy with.

Last but not least, here are some of the websites that turned me on to the oil-cleansing method last year. Thanks, ladies!

Sorta Crunchy

Keeper of the Home

High on Health

Have you tried the oil cleansing method? Speak up in the comments! Let everyone know what you thought and what your favorite part about it was!


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    ← Older Comments
    • Rizwana_zaman

      after reading about OCM i am really interested but have need a few clarification:
      - i would not be able to do it everyday, how would you recommend i take off my makeup other days when I am not using OCM
      - do you all use you normal sunscreens and moisturisers in the morning before makeup?
      any suggestions will be gratgefully received.

    • Crimson__butterfly

      What should I use as a cleanser on the days I’m not using the the oil cleansing method? For morning and night

    • Margaret

      Alright, here are the details.

      I’m 19 years old, and I started the oil cleansing method
      almost three weeks ago (March 3) because Proactiv isn’t working too well and it’s
      expensive. I started off with equal parts castor and extra virgin olive oil
      (1/2 tsp. to ½ tsp. and I used Kirkland signature organic extra virgin olive
      oil. It was on the list of good olive oils on this site and it’s cold pressed,
      so I suppose it’s okay) and three drops of tea tree oil.

      For two weeks it was fine, and my skin has really improved
      in texture, but perhaps around last Saturday my forehead (especially near my temples) broke out very badly.
      I think it’s just my skin purging and getting used to the new regime? I’m
      hoping that is the case. I don’t know if it’s my monthly gift either, since it’s
      been nonexistent since January… a doctor’s visit is required here, I believe.

      I began wiping off the oil in the shower on Sunday because I
      read that the steam helps, and I started using the ACV toner morning and night,
      and yesterday I began doing the honey wash in the morning with raw honey in hopes of clearing
      up my skin (I’m not allergic to honey, thank goodness)–tonight I’m going to try
      adding a more castor oil to the regime as well, because I’m starting to think I have oily skin. For the past two days I’ve
      increased the tea tree oil to ten drops too.

      Is anyone willing to share how long it took for their skin
      to grow used to the OCM? And if anyone has any helpful tips or advice, I’d be
      very grateful.

    • Cera

      Hello,
      I’m excited to try this OCM thing I’ve heard so much about, but I have a question about castor oil… I’m worried that it will dry out my skin and also worried about how natural it is. Does anyone know of a substitute? Or have any information regarding castor oil for me?
      Thanks for the help!

    • OCM fan girl

      I started the OCM about 8 weeks ago, when the dry Northern California winter was wreaking havoc on my fair skin (white scaly flaky specs around the nose and cheeks, no amount of expensive moisturizer could fix). I never had the purge episode that others have mentioned, though I don’t include Castor Oil in my mix since others noted that it caused more dryness. My results have been fantastic. One or two cystic zits that cleared up quickly after a few days of applying straight tea tree oil, nothing since then. Here is my routine:

      - Combine EVOO, grape seed oil, a few drops of tea tree, lavender, and vitamin E oil in an old bottle with an eye dropper
      - Massage a few drops of this concoction on my dry, unwashed face for a few minutes every morning
      - Normal shower routine, lastly steaming off the oil with a warm washcloth 2 or 3 times (scraping the oil after the washcloth has started to cool). Use a white cloth to see all the gory goop that it gathers. Strangely gratifying.
      - Splash a handful of Apple Cider Vinegar to tone (stings a little in a good way)
      - Rinse with warm water

      If my face feels dry after the shower I’ll use a few drops of vitamin E or Argon oil in the dry areas. This routine happens every morning. I don’t do anything at night (bad girl!). My complexion is clear and bright for the first time in adult life (I’m in my mid 30′s and have always struggled with frequent breakouts and rosacea-ish spots). This week I even stopped wearing foundation – just a little mineral powder to even out my ruddy Irish skin tone.

      I think it has been successful for me because I omitted the Castor Oil and have not used soap or a commercial moisturizer this entire time. In reading the comments it seems like those who are having issues with OCM did not trust the process and continued to use soap, which I think would really confuse your skin.

      My only concern is that while this is working great during the winter it may not fair well in the summer months. I bike to/from work and really need to use sunscreen in the sunnier months. What are other OCM devotees using for sun block? 

    • melissa

      i’ve been trying this method, but my face is still really dry. what do you recommend for a natural facial moisturizer?

      • http://twitter.com/natalieann007 Natalie Sells

        For the first week-10 days I was super dry as well.  I reduced castor oil (to maybe 1/4) and the other 3/4 is grapeseed and evoo.  After I tone w/ a mixture of acv and water w/ 2-3 of tea tree oil (my mix is less than some, I use 1/8 acv with 7/8 distilled water),  I moisturize with a couple drops of evoo that has a drop or two of lavender eo.  My dryness has completely subsided (and I live in Colorado, extremely dry conditions!).

    • Lily

      I decided to try out OCM after coming back to your site over and over again, and I am not sure if it is working or what it is I am doing wrong. I’ve been doing it for 9 days now and only at night. I have always had quite oily skin especially on the T-zone plus I also have rosacea. I started off with a mixture of 2 parts castor oil to 1 part sunflower oil. I would massage it in really well for 2 minutes and then with a warm cloth I would clean it off. The first day was great but as the days went on I noticed that while my t-zone wasn’t as oily as usual the rest of my face was really really dry. I looked like I had suddenly aged 10 years (I’m 40 by the way). I replaced the sunflower oil for jojoba oil and used less castor oil. I’m currently using about 15% castor oil and 85% jojoba oil plus 1-2 drops of tea tree oil which is supposed to be good for rosacea. After I clean it off with a warm cloth, I close my pores with diluted ACV and moisturize with some jojoba oil. My skin doesn’t feel as tight and the dryness has improved a little. However, my skin still feels somewhat dry and I still look like I’ve suddenly aged 10 years. The redeness I get from the rosacea has improved since I started OCM so I don’t want to throw in the towel just yet. While I haven’t been breaking out as I’ve read in some other comments here, I do find that my pores don’t seem to be getting any smaller and I am getting a lot of blackheads on my nose. Too many for my liking. No matter how many times I wipe off the oil with a warm cloth after massaging it in, the blackheads are still there.  Is anyone else having the same problem with blackheads and dryness? Am I using the wrong oil perhaps and instead of jojoba I should be using something else? Should I use less castor oil??? I just don’t know and I am hoping that someone may be able to help me out.

    • Jadeebugsmom

      I have been doing the Oil Cleansing Method before bedtime for about a month now and my skin is not breaking out like it once did and it looks so much better (less redness), I have combination skin and it is very sensitive. I have been using 1 part castor oil and 2 parts extra virgin olive oil, and I love the way my skin feels after i cleanse, it feels so soft and clean. It removes all my makeup and I use alot. I have noticed I still have some flakiness around my nose and may use sunflower seed oil with castor oil next…Iam going to try different mixes to see what my skin likes the most. I find that it isn’t any more expensive than buying cleansers, plus the oils last forever and you dont need to use that much. The reason I decided to try this type of cleansing is because I had used samples of DHC’s cleansing oil and really liked it but found the price to be a little steep for me so I decided to make my own, so far so good and will continue doing this because I can tell it is making a difference in my skin……

    • Ryan

      This is the worst thing I’ve ever tried!  I did OCM for about 2 months and ended up with really bad results.  I used extra virgin olive oil and castor oil and kept them in a little plastic bottle.  The first few weeks were fine and I thought that it was working.  My face felt fine and I didn’t breakout.  But a few weeks later I noticed that my cheeks and forehead were getting very bumpy and red.  I never breakout on my cheeks so I was worried.  Over the next few days, the bumps just got bigger and bigger and even spread to my neck and jaw.  My mom even noticed and told me to stop putting oil on my face because I was just trapping bacteria underneath the skin.  It looked like my face was just totally clogged up with oils.    

      I stopped doing this about a week ago and my face is slowly clearing up from that breakout.  I’m using my regular facewash and clindamycin now.  I still have some spots but not as bad as when I was on OCM.  They are finally drying up instead of looking very fresh and red all the time.  I think it’ll be about 1 more month til I clear up from this disaster.  If you’re thinking about trying the OCM just be very careful and watch out for any breakout.  If you keep continuing with it, your face could keep get worse til it’s too late to stop.  Don’t do it!  It really is the WORST THING EVER!

      • http://www.crunchybetty.com CrunchyBetty

         I’m sorry you had such a bad result. That’s really unfortunate. Thank goodness not many people have had the same experience you did! Whew!

        It seems that the oil in question is the olive oil, as nearly everyone who’s reported negative experiences with OCM have used the olive oil. A few weeks ago, I wrote about how most extra virgin olive oil isn’t really extra virgin (and how MANY of the brands are actually tainted with other really bad oils), so this may very well be the culprit.

    • http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=5306534 Chloe Feinberg

      I am very interested in trying this method. Any Europeans or people living in Europe on the threads? I live in the Netherlands now and none of the bio shops I have been to have castor oil. Any ideas on where to find it?

      • Kirsten

        In The Netherlands castor oil is known as ‘wonderolie’. It’s sold in small bottles just like 90% alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, pure acetone etc. You should be able to get it at any ‘apotheek’ and I think I also bought some at the Kruidvat but I’m not sure.

    • http://ecb.edesignsfashion.com/ Erin the Creative Broad

      Wanted to let you know I’m back to oil cleansing and wrote about it on my blog…linked to your post here since you’re more of an expert than I am!  
      http://ecb.edesignsfashion.com/2012/04/11/washing-my-face-with-oil-because-im-breaking-out-like-a-teenager.aspx

    • BairbreJane

      Love The Site!
      I just started the OCM tonight (”,)
      Could anyone tell me- I rinsed my face but I still feel like there is oil on my skin..is this OK or should I rinse until it is completely gone…?

    • Hannah Leverett

      Hi Crunchies! I started OCM about a week ago, and I have to confess I’m a bit disappointed.
      I had awful acne as a teenager, which has let up a little now I’m in my twenties, but I still have mild rosacea on my cheeks and a terrible case of blackheads on my forehead, nose and cheeks. Without wishing to get too… biological, they’re not the squeezable kind that create a bump, but the kind that sit inside the pore and make it look huge and disgusting. I’m using a 1:1 castor oil and jojoba oil mixture morning and evening, following the instructions in the article exactly. So far, I haven’t noticed any difference at all – the blackheads are as stubborn as ever, and there’s no change in the rosacea (although I expected that). 

      I’ll keep going with the OCM, but I just wanted to check I’m not doing something wrong. After all the miracle stories I expected a little more! I read the article on blackheads and think I’ll try a clay mask to see if that helps.

      Anyone else had the same problem? Any other treatments for the blackheads from hell?

    • Jamie

      I have to second the gratefulness here! I had read a lot about OCM, but this site broke it down for me step by step in a way that wasn’t so intimidating…I’m about three weeks in and am so happy with my skin! I keep waiting for the “backlash” from my skin, but I think that I’ll stick with OCM even if that happens. My face looks the best it has in a long, long time. It isn’t 100% free of pimples, but  my skin looks so much better in general – glowing, pretty and clearer overall. Most of my pores are clear with just some stubborn blackheads on the tip of my nose (i’m going to try the other blackhead removal tips on this site soon) and hormonal (monthly) breakouts. I’m so happy I tried this! I had long suspected that the anti-acne products I was using actually made things worse rather than better. I hope OCM keeps working this well – thanks for the tips! I use 2/3 castor oil with the other third a 50/50 mix of jojoba and sweet almond with a few drops of tea tree oil mixed in (i pre-mix in a bottle). This is working so far! I feel a little dry after i wash, so I put tea tree on stubborn spots and then spread argan oil all over my face and neck. Another bonus – the oiliness I was seeing midday is gone! Thanks for saving my mid-30s skin!

    • http://www.ourhomemadehappiness.com/ Kendra

      I tried the ratio for dry skin (1/3 castor oil and 2/3 carrier oil) and it made my face sooo dry. So I switched to using only olive oil (no castor oil) and lukewarm water.  Hot water is really drying.  I’ve been doing OCM for two months now and I love it!  My face looks and feels great.  Thanks Crunchy Betty!

    • Aami

      Isn’t there any alternative to using a washcloth??? Annnnnnnnyoneeee please help… I don’t like the idea of more laundry as I live in an apartment and don’t have units in my apartment …. Has anyone tried anything that effectively removed oil and gets make up off? Maybe a round cotton swab? Like the ones used for toner?

      • Guest

         I use paper towels.

      • sc

        How about generic unscented, etc… baby wipes?

    • KT

      Ive been doing this lately with just olive oil. Its amazing with makeup, even waterproof mascara, so gentle & doesn’t sting eyes. Then I follow up with the steam. Goodbye makeup! works better than commercial cleansers. My pores are tighter & i’ve been getting less breakouts but my skin is still hydrated. I have dry skin but still break out occasionally around the monthlies. Love this cleansing method!

    • Nicole Effle

      I have contemplated doing this for some time! Last week I ran out of commercial face wash and decided to give it a go! Today is day 2!

    • Hevknight

      I have just started the OCM method and I cant beleive the difference it has made. I have battled Acne for 25 years. Believe me I’ve tried everything. Ive been using ProActive for the last year, and lately my skin has been breaking out, and not just the normal pimples but huge painful lumps under my skin with no heads. Its also dry and flaky all the time too. I have been surfing the internet recently in the hope of a miracle. Then i came across the OCM and I thought why would you want to add more oil to oily skin. Its gonna give you more pimples,surely!. But then I read a bit more into it and thought well maybe My skins just pumping out more oil because its constantly being dried out with Pro active. So I gave it a go 3 days ago and I couldnt beleive how soft it felt. The next morning it even looked clearer and less red. This cant be real!! I was thinking. I have been oil cleansing my face for the last 2 nights as well and even though I still have some pimples, theyre not as red and my face looks clearer, less bumpy and a lot healthier. Is it too good to be true!.I remember when I first used Pro active my face did start clearing up but it didnt last long. So maybe the same things gonna happen with OCM. Suppose time will tell……

    • Anita

      I started OCM nearly 2 weeks ago and I am soooooooo happy! My skin had gone totally haywire with 3-5 cystic pimples popping up daily as well as lots of little hard pimples all over my face, blackheads galore and I was OVER IT! Prior to OCM I had been using Priori with a hefty price tag, but think this is what made my skin worse. My husband even commented and said he had never seen my skin this bad, ever! What did I have to lose using the OCM – my skin couldnt get any worse! I made a bottle mix of my oil – 30g Castor seed oil, 20g Jojoba, 10g Vitamin E, 20g Sweet Almond Oil, few drops of tea tree oil and 20g of Polysorbate 80. First wash I could notice a difference, my skin looked ‘calmer’ and felt tighter. Nearly 2 weeks on – NO cystic pimples, blackheads/pores minimized, scarring improving and over all and I feel better about myself. I have noticed that this much castor oil is a bit drying – so have added more Jojoba oil to the mix :) I now only spot treatment any big pimples with tea tree oil, which works wonders. I have also made my own Kinetin Anti Aging and Anti Acne serum as well, which has improved my skin as well :)

    • SC

      I stumbled across a website about the OCM about a year ago. I researched the heck out of it, and decided to try it. I had moderate acne from about age 13 on, and I was getting really sick of still dealing with it in my mid-20s. With no signs of it slowing down, I figured I didn’t have anything to lose. I started with a mix of 20% Castor oil with 80% high-quality Grapeseed oil. It was AMAZING! My skin felt super oily for a while (maybe a month), but the difference in clarity was astounding. When I started, I usually had 10-15 small pimples, 3-5 big ones, and huge blackheads at all times. I just counted in the mirror to make sure, and I currently have 1 red spot from an old small pimple and one I can feel might come up in the next few days. My blackheads are still there, but they’re a lot less noticable. I’m currently up to about 40% Castor oil and 60% Grapeseed, but I have to exfoliate a lot or I get flaky. Sorry if this is too much information for you, but I spent over a decade embarrassed by my face, and now I barely remember what it was like to feel like I couldn’t leave the house without makeup. I can wear my hair in a ponytail and not have to worry about people seeing my skin. I never would have done that before. It’s silly, but writing this has made me a little teary-eyed thinking about how much happier my teenagehood would have been had I found out about this earlier. I recommend it to everyone I know.

    • PJ

      Using oil to make my face non-oily made perfect sense, but this one stumped me:

      “… as well as castor oil that’s consciously extracted.”

      As opposed to unconsciously?

      Does this have something to do with being cruel to beans??

    • Kristinlapointe

      I am curious, do you do this every night? have you experience any facial hair growth? i heard castor oil stimulates hair growth. 

    • Strawberrypie525

      I read about and started the OCM 5 weeks before my wedding after dealing with increased acne on my chin the last few years.  Risky to change up my routine so close to the wedding but I figured it couldn’t make things any worse.  I’m so happy I did.  My skin was acne free and radiant on my wedding day.  I’ll never go back to traditional cleansers.

      • leighhughes

        Would you mind sharing what oils you are using? I’ve been doing the OCM for months and have just recently developed some of the worst acne on my chin I’ve ever had! That’s so great that it worked for you, especially after taking such a risk before your wedding!

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